Mountains, Movie Stars and Small Town History in Independence, California

Independence and the Winnedumah Hotel offer an authentic, historic old California experience (photo by Greg Aragon)

While recently charting my course to California’s Eastern Sierra, I spotted a tiny town on the map called Independence. It was located off Highway 395, right along my path. And with a name like Independence, it screamed history and small-town California. I had to investigate.

My getaway began at the historic 1927 Winnedumah Hotel, where a couple of friends and I met Cindy and Derek Abrahams, the property’s general managers. They told me about the fascinating history surrounding the Winnedumah and set me up in the Bing Crosby suite. That’s right, I stayed in the same room that the legendary actor/crooner stayed in while he was in town filming or sneaking away from Hollywood.

Rooms are vintage and charming at the hotel (photo by Greg Aragon)

Vintage and charming, the Crosby suite features two rooms that share a Jack and Jill bathroom. The suite has a 1920s décor, with classic hardwood floors and furniture, metal-framed beds and period-era bathroom fixtures.

The cozy lobby is a place to meet fellow travelers from all over the world (photo by Greg Aragon)

There are no televisions in the hotel rooms, but the serenity of the property, with its gentle creaking wood floors and crackling fireplace in the lobby, inspire relaxation, book reading, or conversation with friends, fellow visitors from around the world, or with Cindy and Derek, who are knowledgeable about the area and treat guests like family.

The bed & breakfast is managed by Cindy and Derek Abrahams, who treat guests like family (photo by Greg Aragon)

“When people visit Independence and the Winnedumah Hotel, they are going to get an authentic, historic Eastern Sierra Nevada experience,” says Cindy. “This is the old west and we’ve got the mountains, the high desert, and quintessential small-town USA. And when you stay here, you get a very personal, boutique hotel experience.”

Independence is small-town California at its best (photo by Greg Aragon)

Independence is located off U.S. Route 395, the main north-south highway cutting through the Owens Valley. The tiny town is a gateway to outdoor havens such as the John Muir Wilderness Area and Kings Canyon/Sequoia National Parks. Hikers pass through while trekking the Pacific Crest Trail, or on their way up California’s two tallest peaks, Mt. Whitney and Mt. Williamson. Others stay at the Winnedumah Hotel for quieter experience while skiing in busy Mammoth. Whatever the reason, the hotel gets about 60 percent of its clientele from international travelers.

Independence is a gateway to famous mountain peaks and national parks (photo by Greg Aragon)

But many of the Winnedumah’s first visitors were local, coming from Hollywood. Numerous early westerns were filmed in nearby Lone Pine and the Alabama Hills. This brought the likes of Roy Rogers, Gary Cooper, Gabby Hayes, John Wayne and Bing Crosby to the newly built Winnedumah Hotel. Wayne had a favorite room at the hotel and when Crosby visited, he was given the room above the managers’ suite so they could hear him sing in the shower. Even famed California photographer Ansel Adams sought comfort at the property while on photo shoots.

Hollywood movies stars were regulars at The the Winnedumah while filming in nearby hills (photo by Greg Aragon)

The hotel lobby still has the original 1892 piano that Bing used to sit at and sing as well as other furnishings from the 1920s, including the overstuffed chairs in the lobby and the steel mesh chairs on the front porch which can be seen in Roy Roger’s first movie “Under Western Stars.”

Besides the Winnedumah, the town also boasts a tiny post office, one restaurant, a sandwich shop, and a taco truck. For culture, there is the Eastern California Museum, located a couple blocks from the hotel. After a complimentary buffet breakfast at the hotel, we walked to the museum and discovered an incredible collection of beautiful, hand-crafted Native American baskets.

The Eastern California Museum displays local history and one of the largest exhibits of local Paiute-Shoshone basketry in the nation (photo by Greg Aragon)

The display is one of the largest exhibits of local Paiute-Shoshone basketry in the nation. Ornamental and functional baskets, along with cradleboards, projectile points, bows and arrows, and rare examples of Paiute beadwork are included in the extensive exhibit. The basket exhibit includes more than 400 pieces and nearly 100 other, related artifacts, and is contained in about 14 large display cases.

The museum also showcases a large collection of historic photographs, Owens Valley history, scores of old west guns, and extensive mining and farming equipment and historic structures found outside in the museum yard. There is also lovely creek and pond outside, with majestic views of the Eastern Sierra mountains in the background.

Nature hikes are a great way to see the area (photo by Greg Aragon)

Directly across from the Winnedumah Hotel is the iconic Independence Courthouse, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1969 the courthouse held 24 members of the Manson Family for possession of stolen vehicles and property.

Independence Courthouse is on National Register of Historic Places (photo by Greg Aragon)

About three miles northwest of Independence is the Mt. Whitney Fish Hatchery. Built-in 1916, it has supplied trout eggs to other hatcheries in California and other western states. It is the only hatchery to produce golden trout, California’s state fish.

For more information on visiting Independence and on staying the Winnedumah Hotel, call (760) 878-2040.

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Greg Aragon, Writer Greg's Getaway
Greg Aragon is a travel writer from Pasadena, California. For the past 15 years Greg has authored “Greg’s Getaway,” a popular travel column that covers the globe. In the course of writing Greg's Getaway, Greg has traveled to more than 25 countries in search of exciting destinations, people, food, drink and culture. From Alaska to Zermatt, Greg has experienced the thrill and beauty of traveling to the fullest. Along the way he has dog sledded on glaciers, drank with sea captains, danced with hula girls, dined with royalty, sung with street performers, wrestled with pigs, jumped from airplanes, conquered rapids, panned for gold, rode a rhino, slept in trees and much, much more. When not on the road, Greg enjoys strumming his old nylon string guitar and playing basketball.